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Herb King on Anren market-day

2023-03-31

At the dawn of the vernal equinox, Chen Zanwen goes up the hill with his apprentice to gather herbs when everything is fresh and dewy. To prepare the traditional Anren-style cuisine, braised trotters with herbs, the 79-year-old man keeps plucking with ease along the steep road.

 

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The vernal equinox is Chen’s busiest time. Herb picking, grocery shopping, stew cooking—all these are essential for producing the mouthwatering delicacy of Anren County, where nature and traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) are held in esteem.
 
As far back as the Song Dynasty, three-day activities were held by the Anren people during the vernal equinox to honor Emperor Shennong, a pioneer in agriculture and TCM. On the unique Anren market-day, people offer sacrifices, pray for bountiful harvests, and open herb market, a tradition that has lasted well over a millennium.
 
Meanwhile, locals will finish off stewed pig feet to warm themselves up for the plowing in early spring, as a bowl of pork knuckle soup with over 30 kinds of local herbs will definitely protect them from the cold in cropland.
 
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Chen with a chest-length white beard is nicknamed “The Herb King” and “Beard Grandpa”. As an inheritor of Shennong culture, the old man has dedicated himself to herb gathering, medicine production, and illness treatment for decades. He has gathered herbs with family since he could remember and has never ever missed the market day. And over time, he knows local herbs back to front, gets the hang of trotter cuisine, and can even cook various trotter soup for different seasons.
 
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On March 21, the annual Anren market-day kicked off. Chen and his family got up early, selling out braised trotters with herbs, and hastened to the herb trade fair. Upon the fair, Chen was greeted warmly by herb traders and surrounded by crowds for herb tips or medical advice. He would always answer their questions patiently like an official herb commentator.
 
Going to the Anren fair and cooking food with medicinal ingredients have been part of Chen’s life from youth to elderly.